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RV
Manual We are developing an online Manual so that you may enjoy your RV to it's fullest. This is a work in progress and is subject to change at any given time. It is also a generic peace of work and is meant only as a general guide, it should not be taken as absolute fact. Each RV is distinct and individual in it's own right, do not take anything written here literally as it may or may not apply to the exact RV you will be using. Some information provided in these pages are only suggestions. Please read Your RV page as we have more helpful information.
When something breaks because of a safety problem, it costs a lot of money to repair it. The purpose of the page is to help resolve the Overload Problem. It's serious! 64% of the RVs on the road exceed the weight rating. A critical safety issue all RV'ers need to be
become more informed about is "Weights & Balance". But, just what
is meant by "Weights and Balance"? Why is this term becoming of more
interest to RV'ers? The answers are fundamental; Saving time and money, and
safety! Saving you time and money, and ensuring your safety. Pretty solid
reasons for most of us to realize the importance of Weights and Balance, not as
a fad, but for survival. Proper loading of, and weight distribution in,
your RV can prevent premature tire failure, suspension problems, broken axles,
burned-up transmissions or differentials, and other breakdowns. In addition to
the cost of repair parts and labor, there could be expensive unscheduled stays
in hotel/motel rooms, and the associated meals, towing, etc. Of course, the
worst case scenario would be a wreck resulting from a blowout, or perhaps loss
of control. You have probably already seen articles relating to weighing your RV; front-to-back and also side-to-side. This is an important task to take care of when you first acquire and load your RV, whenever you change equipment that could affect the vehicle's weight (RV and/or Tow Vehicle), and periodically thereafter - the "period" depends on how much you travel. If necessary, reconfigure your RV, or reload it, and then have it weighed again. You may have to repeat the process until you get the weights within required limits and distributed correctly. It is surprising how much weight distribution changes just through usage. Things get stowed in different places; new things are acquired as you travel, some things are used up or taken out, etc. "Weights and Balance" is dynamic; that is, it changes.
Terms RVers should understand. "Dry weight" is a very imprecise term. Some manufacturers say it means "nothing wet" in it. Others will say it's without options. Dry Weight is the empty weight of the vehicle or trailer. Dry weight may or may not include the weight of appliances, slide outs, etc. Wet Weight is the weight of the vehicle with fuel, oil, and coolant onboard. Wet weight should, but may not, include the weight of the LPG (propane or butane) in the tanks, and fresh water. (Water weight is 8.34 lbs./U.S. Gallon so a 100 Gallons weighs 834 lb.) Curb weight, or Net Weight should be the weight of the unit as it is sitting on the lot, without the personal load you will be adding. Payload Capacity is
the difference between the actual weight and the GVWR of the vehicle or trailer.
Options and accessories may add weight that is taken from the payload capacity,
leaving you with less margin than you think you have. Ask the dealer to provide
proof of the units weight before you finalize the sale. Then do the math and
calculate what the remaining payload capacity really is.
How to Determine if your Vehicle exceeds its Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) Determine the GVWR by looking on the label located on the driver's door post of most vehicles. Enter that figure into the table below. Determine the NET WEIGHT by taking an unloaded vehicle to a public scale and getting it weighed. Enter the weight into the table below.
Add all of the following items:
Enter the total of all the above to the table above in "Load to be Carried". Subtract the "Load to be Carried" from the "Maximum Allowable Load". If the "Maximum Allowable Load" will be exceeded, you must reduce the weight of the "Load to be Carried" in order to remain in compliance with your vehicle's Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. For optimum results, reduce the "Maximum Allowable Load" by 75% and stay within that limit to allow a margin of safety. When integrating a tow vehicle with a trailer, either a fiver or travel trailer, add the GVWR of the trailer with the GVWR of the tow vehicle. If they add up to more than the GCWR of the tow vehicle it's a bad match. The only solution is to pick a lighter trailer or a bigger tow vehicle. The same applies to a self contained unit and a towed unit, either four wheels down or on a dolly. State Laws require that any towed vehicle exceeding a specified weight, usually about 1,000 to 1,500 lb.., must have it's own braking system. The alternate method for determining allowable trailer weight requires that you know the loaded weight of the tow vehicle and the loaded weight of the trailer (something we don't know when we are on the dealer's lot). The sum of these loaded weights must not exceed the tow vehicles GCWR. If you use the alternate method for computing allowable trailer weight, you risk not being able to load the tow vehicle more than the weight you used when you calculated the allowable trailer weight. There are also limits placed on the tongue or "hitch weight" when towing a travel trailer. Plan on 12% of the trailer's GVWR as hitch weight; actual hitch weight when connected should fall between 9% and 12% of the trailer's loaded weight. Fifth-wheel pin weight comes out of the trucks payload capacity, and you should plan on 18% of the fiver's GVWR. With the fiver hitched-up the pin weight should be between 15% and 18% of the trailer's loaded weight. No combination should ever exceed the tow vehicle's Gross Axle Weight Ratings, front or rear. Front-to-back distribution of a two axle,
six-wheel "straight rig", that is a non-towing vehicle, when loaded,
should be 30% on the front axle and 70% on the rear axle. For a towing vehicle
of two axle, six-wheel configuration pulling a 5th wheeler as a semi-trailer,
the ideal distribution would be 20% GCW on the front axle, 40% GVW on the rear
axle, and the remaining 40% GCW on the trailer axles, however, practical
distribution is 15% on the front axle, 31% on the rear axle, and the remaining
54% GCW equally divided on the trailer axles. A rig that is not relatively equal
side-to-side will not ride or handle well. If there is an out of balance
condition in either direction (absent a broken suspension component or flat
tire) it is due to improper load distribution. Side-to-side imbalance could be
either the result of incorrect loading or poor manufacture. Strong evidence why
it is best to weigh before you buy. As of September 1, 1996 , RVIA member's Motorhome data plates have been required to show, in addition to GVWR, the UVW, the NCC, and the GCWR. Unfortunately, however, estimates are allowed, and the data plates can be difficult to find even though the regulations state, "post in a conspicuous place". The biggest problem not addressed is weight distribution. The RV might have 2,000 pounds of NCC, but it might all go over the front axle, thus causing a violation of an axle or tire rating. A secondary problem is that the UVW is measured at the factory. If a dealer loads it up with options, the weight of these additional items will not be reflected in the data stated on the plate. But smart RV buyers can and should inquire into the total weight of all dealer-installed options. The towing guide will show you what a truck can pull -- unloaded, with no options, a 150 lb. driver and no passengers! Weigh it before you pay for it. A reputable dealer will allow this. Please read our Tow Vehicles page for more information.
Truck stops (Flying J) are a good choice. The charge is $5 -$8 for the first weighing, and less for a subsequent one. Make sure the scales are certified. If they are not too busy, a state weighing stop, (Oregon for example), will allow you to weigh.
Hitch Weights / Tongue Weights There are several different terms to describe an RV's actual weight. Here are a few useful terms and definitions to help you.
Words of wisdom Most light-weight RV manufacturers do not include the weights of the available options in their the UVW (like an AC, Awning,etc.). You must add that weight to the UVW to get the true weight. Vehicles have a hitch weight limit and a tow limit. A travel trailer can have some to all of it's hitch weight transferred to the front wheels of the tow vehicle by using an equalizer hitch (a.k.a. head & bars). You can actually exceed your hitch weight with a properly set up equalizer hitch. It is not, however, recommended that you exceed your tow rating.
They are usually the weak link in the system. If tire ratings are exceeded, they are likely to fail. The failures are usually due to progressive damage. It's a slow, insidious process. The only solution is proper tire maintenance and proper inflation. Wash your tires to help prolong their life. Wash both sides (!) to remove goo and road dust, but do not use a petroleum based product. It will pull the rubber out of the tire. Example of a tire: LT235/85R16, LRE. The "LRE"
means load range E. Years ago we looked at tires by the number of plies. This is
no longer the case, as many good tires now can be only a single ply. But it's
exceedingly tough. Load range E is the equivalent to the old "10 ply
rated" tire. The code here is -- the letter "E" is the fifth
letter. Multiply it by 2, and you get the "10". Load range G is 7
multiplied by the magic "2" again, or a 14 ply equivalent rating. There is a relationship between load limits and speed. Tire manufacturers measure service life at a sustained speed of 65 mph. Over that, tires lose carrying capacity. Service life can be extended by lower speeds. Please read our Tires page for more information. |
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