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Safely towing a toad behind a motorhome requires proper equipment that is installed correctly, used properly and well maintained. This page describes the methods and products that will help you do all these tasks. Also describes the various tow bars, brackets, and lighting systems that are available. TD's add 600 lbs or more weight, require dealing with an additional vehicle, become unstable at higher speeds, cost more to by and cost more to maintain and license (in some States). The supplemental brakes are less than effective than brakes on the toad, since there are only two wheels on the ground. They are also difficult to store when you reach your destination. Backing up is difficult even for a few feet. They are more difficult to hook up and get the car properly attached. The dolly must be attached to the motorhome and the passenger vehicle must be attached to the dolly. That's too many places for things to come loose or break. There only one advantage provided by a tow dolly and that is they allow different vehicles to be taken along. I have investigated accidents where the tow dolly was a significant contributor. A braked tow dolly costs from $1800. I would not even consider using a non-braked tow dolly Vehicle trailers have all the same characteristics of tow dollies except they can be backed up easily. They weigh significantly more than tow dollies. Dual axle trailers with properly adjusted brakes can provide adequate supplemental braking. They are much more expensive than tow dollies. I recommend vehicle trailers only for RVers who drive large diesel pushers and want to take along that special antique or sports car in an enclosed trailer. If you want to take all your toys along in addition to a car, then you need a large cargo trailer and you better have a large coach. I recently saw a toy trailer with two dirt bikes, two Personal Water Crafts, a dune buggy (toad) and an Ultra-Lite Aircraft on board. It was behind a 40' diesel pusher rated for the 10,000 lb involved. I would hate to see this kind of trailer behind a 31' Class C. Vehicle trailer's cost start at $1500 and go up to $5,000 or more if you get matching paint Tow bars come in three basic forms: basic fixed A-frame, folding A-frame that stows on the toad, and folding A-frame that stows on the motorhome. All work safely. The basic A-frame is difficult to connect and store but very inexpensive ($125). All bars need to be rated to tow the weight involved. Most are rated to tow 5000 lb. but some are 3000 lbs. For heavy toads and 8000 lb. rating is available from some manufacturers Models that fold on to the toad have quick disconnects, so they can be removed from the toad when it is driven solo. The first two have the requirement of being installed so that the bar is level. Since they use a ball hitch, misalignment, highway dips or deep driveways can cause the hitch to come loose. The ball hitch types are easier to connect and disconnect. They cost about $400 Models that fold on to the motorhome are the most recent developments and are most popular. They can tolerate up to 6' of misalignment and won't disconnect driving through deep driveways or dips. The models that fold on to the motorhome are safer in my opinion since there is no "trailer ball" hitch involved and will not come uncoupled. I have tried them all and prefer the fold on to the motorhome models. They are safer and are easier to store when the toad is solo. The stow on the motor home type are more difficult to disconnect and typically require a tool to release the pressure on the connections. This type costs about $500 Tow brackets attach directly to the toad's chassis or frame and are customized to each model. Qualified welding shops can fabricate a good bracket for almost any vehicle. Manufactured tow brackets are available for the most popular toads from Roadmaster, Demco or Blue Ox. The cost runs about $250 installed. The better brackets are not obtrusive on the front of the Toad and look OK. I recommend manufactured brackets A high quality 4 or 6 wire cable that is connectorized should be installed between the motorhome and the toad. I recommend manufactured cables because they come with a coil shape. These cables automatically take up any slack in the cable. Non-coil electrical cables have to be attached to the bar in such a way to allow enough slack to allow the toad to turn but not enough to drag on the ground. Homemade cables generally are less reliable. The wiring in the toad should include diode modules to isolate the toad's electrical system from the motor homes electrical system. It is also possible to use a removable light bar that magnetically attaches to the roof or trunk of the toad and thus have a complete separate lighting system for the toad when it is being towed. I favor the diode- isolated technique because the light bar can fall off while in motion. These bars also have to be removed and stowed with each use. Wiring inside a toad costs about $100 plus labor.-- All tow bars need to have proper installed Safety Cables or Chains. Two Safety Cables or Chains must be installed from the frame of the motorhome to the frame of the toad. They must be crisscrossed underneath the tow bar for most effective installation. The connectors used to fasten then ends must be rated for the total weight of the toad. Heavy bolt links or hardened "S" shaped connectors with rubber stays are available form most trailer supply companies. I do not recommend spring-loaded quick connectors because they are not rated for the weight involved. Safety Cables or Chains cost about $75.
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