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Properties of propane. It has no odor by itself. It's clear. An odorant is added, and that's the smell we're all familiar with. It's heavier than air, and thus displaces air. That's why propane detector is usually within a few inches of the floor. It has limits of flammability. 2.5% - 9.5% by volume mixed with air is where it's flammable. Thus when it first leaks out, it's an insufficient "mix" to be explosive. At .5% (by volume) you can begin to smell it.

When you purchase it, it's in a liquid state. Tank gets filled to 80%. Allows for 20% expansion. When vaporized, it expands 270 to 1. Liquid propane "boils" at -44F. If surrounding area is colder than that, it stays in liquid form, and won't come out of tank. Not usually a problem w/propane.

But sometimes it's mixed with butane. Coming home to northern states from AZ with a full tank of butane -- which won't vaporize until it gets above 32F -- can cause a problem, since butane needs to be above freezing to vaporize.

Perfect combustion of propane yields water, carbon dioxide & heat. But often it's not perfect.

Cylinders & Tanks: Cylinders small disposables (like Coleman) up to very large re-useable. If you refinish the outside of a cylinder yourself, use white or off-white color. Dark colors absorb heat, and propane liquid expands 1.5% for every 10 degrees (measured against temp at filling time). Plastic milk cartons make great travel containers for propane tanks when taking them in for refilling. The date on the tank should be w/in 10 years -- and if not, needs recertification. Usually cheaper to dispose of the old tank and purchase a new one. [Note: US is 12 years, Canada is 10 years.]

Recommend don't travel with fridge on. Fridge can retain cold for a full day's travel, so really not needed anyway. New tanks have "OPD", overflow protection device (triangular handle plus outside label). These not only have spit valve, but something that cuts off filling at 80%. Quick connect "QC-1" valve. No more messing around with wrenches.

Propane cyls & tanks require purging before use, to ensure getting rid of air/moisture. If it's exposed to atmosphere (empty with valve open). Moisture effects pilot lights and other probs. Can save cost of purging. Put anhydrous methanol into container to eat water, and bleed off several times. Then charge w/15# vapor.

Two ways to fill cylinders. By volume -- open set screw, will bleed off when fogs out at 80%. In US they fill by volume, and won't touch a tank w/out it. Also, can fill by weight. Collar shows tear weight -- which is dry weight. Water capacity, mulitply by 42%.

Hoses & Lines. Propane goes to regulator via hoses. They should be flexible, and state on it that it's for LP gas and good to 350#. Look for the label of UL or CGA approval. Some have "O" rings. Check them for cracking. Check hoses for dry cracking as well.

Don't use Teflon tape or lubricant on threads.

Barbeque "single stage" regulators are illegal on RVs. Two stage regulators provide margin of safety. 100# tank pressure goes down to 10-13#; second stage can work much more easily with the low pressure it receives from first stage. Vents must be pointed down +/- 45 degrees. Auto change over lets you open both tanks, point to the primary tank which will be used up first. When it runs dry (propane will now be automatically drawn from the second tank) turn it off, switch pointer to second tank, and you're ready to fill up the empty one.

What a great deal propane is! You get so much for such a small cost. It goes into your tank as a liquid; but it comes out of your tank as a gas. It purposely has an odor which you can detect if there is a leak. It powers your range, refrigerator, hot water heater, and heater. All newer RVers have propane "sniffers", which will sound an alarm if it detects any propane leaks. If you suspect a leak, go outside immediately, turn off the propane at the tank, open all the windows and door, and get an expert to fix it. But these are well made systems, and malfunctions of the propane distribution system is uncommon.

Refrigerator: These are different from what you have in your house. These usually operate on either 120 AC, or propane. And occasionally they will run on DC as well, though that's becoming less common because it causes a significant drain on your batteries. Recommends you not use propane while you're driving, because it's unsafe. Better, shut off propane at the tank whenever you're driving. The only thing you need to do is ensure your rig is reasonably level, so the refrigerator can operate as designed.

For dual propane cylinders: The solenoid valve often fails. Don't let anyone replace a propane appliance until you've checked to see whether the solenoid valve is working properly.