We are developing an online Manual so that you may enjoy your RV to it's fullest. This is a work in progress and is subject to change at any given time.  It is also a generic peace of work and is meant only as a general guide, it should not be taken as absolute fact.  Each RV is distinct and individual in it's own right, do not take anything written here literally as it may or may not apply to the exact RV you will be using.  Some information provided in these pages are only suggestions.  Please read Your RV page as we have more helpful information.

Your RV's plumbing system contains three main tanks - fresh water, gray water, and black water. Our attention will be focused on the latter two. Your gray water tank holds water that drains from your RV's shower, kitchen and bathroom sinks, and wash machine (if installed). The black water tank holds waste from the RV toilet. The two tanks are usually located next to each other and are accessible through one of your rig's outside compartment doors.

Both holding tanks use sensors to indicate when they are full or filling, usually sending readouts to the RV's monitor in increments showing empty, one-third full, two-thirds full, and full. Both tanks drain through the same outlet into a sewer hose, supplied by you, that carries the waste water to a sewer drain located in a campground or at a dump station. The black water tank drains through a three-inch valve, while the gray water tank drains through a one and one-half inch valve, so there can be no confusing the two.

Tanks and connecting pipes are usually made of ABS plastic and are quite sturdy. The pipe joints are almost always glued, so repairing or replacing usually involves some cutting. The exception is the P-traps beneath your sinks and shower, where the pieces are screwed together for easy removal. These traps are notorious holders of water, so pouring non-toxic antifreeze into each one when winterizing is highly recommended. The tank system's valves contain O-ring seals and sliding valves that should be regularly lubricated. Odors are vented through one and one-half inch pipes that exit through the roof of the RV.

System trouble spots are most often found in the sensors, the P-traps, the vent pipes, and the sliding valves. Sensors often become coated with waste, debris, or tissue. This causes them to send false signals to the monitor, making your tanks look fuller than they really are. Rinsing and cleaning every time you dump should keep them operating properly. If this doesn't do the trick, then your may have to use the "splash and drive" approach. Simply fill the tank with water and contact-cleaner solution and drive around to thoroughly splash the sensors with cleaner. Wait 24 hours, drive again, then drain and flush your tank. The sensors should be as good as new.

Aside from freezing water, the biggest problem with P-traps is clogging. If your water starts draining slowly, then it's time to open the trap and clean things out. Vent pipes, on the other hand, must be clear at all times to function properly. Blocked pipes will restrict flow, causing foul odors to enter your rig's living area and sometimes even forcing toilets to spit back toward the user. Make sure there is no blockage at the roof exit or that the pipes haven't been jammed into the bottom of the holding tanks.

Finally, regular care should prevent valve troubles. Use tank chemicals that clean and lubricate valves. Be careful not to bend, twist, or break valves when opening or closing them. It's also good to replace the O-ring seals every few years. If you see moisture around valves, P-traps, or sink bottoms, there's a good chance you have a leak or a valve that won't close properly. Clean, repair, or replace immediately.

The holding tanks terminate in a valve arrangement that permits draining each tank separately or together. The valves are called "knife valves". A blade closes the opening in the sewer drain pipes. The blade is connected to a T-handle that is pulled to release the contents of the tank(s). During self-containment use, the sewer line is securely capped to prevent leakage of waste material onto the ground or pavement. DO NOT PULL THE HOLDING TANK KNIFE VALVE OPEN WHEN THE PROTECTIVE CAP IS INSTALLED ON THE PIPE. Always drain the tank into an acceptable sewer inlet or dump station.

WARNING

Whenever possible, drain the holding tanks before traveling. Waste water and sewage in the holding tanks reduce the carrying capacity of the motor home. Please read our Loading page for more information.

Drain the holding tanks only when they are at least 3/4 full. If necessary, fill the tanks with water to 3/4 full. This provides sufficient water to allow complete flushing of waste material into the sewer line.

During extended or semi-permanent hookups to sewage systems, waste materials will build up in the tank and cause serious plugging if the tank valves are continuously open. In these cases, keep the valves closed until the tanks are 3/4full, and then drain into the sewage system.

The holding tank drain valve outlet is to be used with a removable termination fitting that locks onto the outlet with a clockwise twist. Clamp the sewer drain hose to this fitting. A protective cap should remain in place when you are not draining the tanks.

NOTE: LOCAL OR STATE REGULATIONS MAY PROHIBIT HIGHWAY TRAVEL UNLESS THE HOLDING TANK OUTLET IS SECURELY CAPPED.

Here, in easy step-by-step format, is the correct way to drain your RV's holding tanks:

1. Wear two layers of gloves, with disposable sanitary gloves inside work gloves.
2. Open the sewer drain connector to check for obstructions.
3. Attach the sewer hose to the holding tank outlet. Insert the end of the hose into the sewer or dump station inlet, pushing it firmly far enough into the opening to be secure. In some cases, adapters may be necessary between the line and the inlet. Arrange the sewer hose so it slopes evenly.
4. Connect the other end to the sewer drain.
5. Brace the end of the hose with your foot or a heavy object.
6. Drain the black water holding tank first. Grasp the handle of the black water knife valve (the large one) firmly and slide the valve open with a quick, steady pull.
7. Insert a rinse wand connected to a garden hose through the toilet drain into the black-water tank.
8. Thoroughly rinse the inside of the black-water tank.
9. Allow enough time for the tank to drain completely. Rinse and flush the tank through the toilet. 
10. When the tank is empty, push the handle in to close the valve. Run enough water into the tank to cover the bottom. This will aid the break up of solid wastes.
11. To drain the gray water tank, repeat the steps above using the small knife valve. This tank is drained last to aid in flushing the outlets and hose. The gray water knife valve may be left open in a semi-permanent hookup.
12. Close the valve when empty.
13. Pour a small amount of diluted tank chemical into a sink or shower drain.
14. Rinse out the sewer hose with fresh water and remove the sewer hose from the dump station.
15. Cap the outlet.
16. Hose down the dump station apron.
17. Put away your sewer hose and rinse wand.
18. Remove the two layers of gloves without contacting the outside of the gloves with your bare hands.
19. Wash your hands thoroughly with antibacterial soap.
20. Add 2-3 gallons of water and the recommended amount of tank chemical to your black-water tank through the toilet.
21. Make sure the water pump is off, hoses are retracted and stored, valves are shut tight, and compartments are closed and locked.
22. Wash your hands again, if necessary.

PLEASE ... PRACTICE GOOD HOUSEKEEPING WHEN DRAINING WASTES AT A CAMPSITE OR DISPOSAL STATION. LEAVE THE SlTE IN GOOD ORDER. ABOVE ALL, DO NOT POLLUTE.

The most common additives found in newer holding tank products include tank cleaners, waste digesters, deodorizers, toilet tissue digesters, gauge sensor cleaners, and drain valve lubricants. When shopping for holding tank chemicals, look for products that contain as many of these additives as possible.

The primary function of tank chemicals is to break down waste and remove odors. Older products used formaldehyde to very successfully prevent odors. However, many septic systems can't break it down and it has a nasty habit of killing "good" bacteria. As a result, nearly all campgrounds and dump stations prohibit the draining of formaldehyde into their sewer systems.

A nice, modern alternative is enzyme-based toilet chemicals that use live bacteria to digest odor-causing agents and break down solid waste. They are designed to accelerate the digestion of organic material while maintaining a low environmental impact and low toxicity. They do lose effectiveness in temperature and water pH extremes, however, and for best results they should be introduced into a totally clean tank.

Holding tanks don't rely on mechanical devices for their trouble free operation. The most common problem unpleasant one - clogging. You can minimize the chances of clogging by keeping the following considerations in mind:

• Keep the black water tank knife valve tank to at least 3/4 full before draining. Be sure to cover the tank bottom with water after draining.
• Use only toilet tissue formulated for tank or RV sanitation systems.
• Keep both knife valves closed and locked, and the drain cap tightly in place when using the system on the road.
• Use only cleaners that are approved for use in septic tank or RV sanitation systems.
• Use a special holding tank deodorant chemical approved for septic tank systems in the black water holding tank. These chemicals aid the breakdown of solid wastes and make the system much more pleasant to use.
• Do not put facial tissue, paper, ethylene glycol based or other automotive antifreeze, sanitary napkins or household toilet cleaners in the holding tanks.
• Do not put anything solid in either tank that could scratch or puncture the tank.
• If the drain system does get clogged:
• Use a hand-operated probe to loosen stubborn accumulations. Seriously clogged P-traps may require disassembly. Be careful not to over tighten when reassembling.
• Do not use harsh household drain cleaners.
• Do not use motorized drain augers.

Sometimes the holding tank valve will get clogged. In this case, a hand-operated auger may be necessary. Be ready to close the valve quickly once the clog is cleared. If the seal gets damaged, it is easily replaced.